Immersing in Philippine culture

With the Philippines as Guest of Honor in Frankfurt in October, my wife Neni, who is part of the GoH team, played host to visiting German press last month. Her account:

A mandatory component of the recent eight-day visit of seven German journalists was immersing them in Philippine culture, through interactions with writers from the regions. All in preparation for the country as Guest of Honor in Frankfurt on Oct. 15-19. Two hectic though well-curated provincial tours were planned by Riya Lopez of the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, the National Book Development Board and the office of Sen. Loren Legarda. The delegates had a choice of two weekend trips: a Northern Luzon visit or a Central Visayas trip.

Tina Schraml and Alexandra Stiller went north in the company of writer Kristian Sendon Cordero. A first stop was at the Istorya Studios in Guiguinto, Bulacan, owned by artists Rodel Tapaya and Marina Cruz, who run an independent publishing house, a popular neighborhood bookstore, a café and a creative space. This was a busy place, frequented by children and grownups alike, enjoying, among other things, Istorya’s wide collection of manual typewriters – a revival of a lost art?

Baguio, the home of two neighboring museums by National Artists Bencab and filmmaker Kidlat Tahimik, was special. There was the Bencab Museum and the Ili-Likha Artists Village and meeting National Artist Kidlat Tahimik, who established the village in 2014, described as “like a whimsical treehouse with mosaics, stained glass and woodwork.”

It was the Central Visayas trip I was lucky to be a part of. An impossible itinerary for Iloilo, Antique, Caticlan, but there was master peerless tour guide, filmmaker Elvert Bañares, to thank. He just made it happen, from greeting us like royalty at the Iloilo airport with handmade leis and a huge tarp. It wasn’t the Dinagyang season but it was recreated for the group nonetheless.

Packing all that Iloilo could offer in a day was heady – as the UNESCO City of Gastronomy, lunch at Tatoy’s Restaurant, a drive at the Jaro Plaza and the newly restored 1744 Bell Tower. The meal was memorable, especially with Leny Ledesma’s commentary on Iloilo’s gastronomy and the city’s souvenir book, a special book project of outgoing Mayor Jerry Treñas.

The early afternoon treat was listening to the chanters of Suguidanon, a Panay Bukidnon epic. A sampling was chanted by a family of chanters that included Lordjane Caballero, a public school teacher, her parents and a young boy.

Then followed literary conversations with local writers at Avanceña-Camiña Balay nga Bato, a 160-year-old house. Over its signature tsokolate de batirol, conversations were held with Early Sol Gadong, Dulce Maria Deriada, Peter Solis Nery and Alain Russ Dimzon.

Interesting was the visit to the National Museum-Western Visayas, which was the former city jail before its rebirth. Impressive was the city esplanade and surrounding it, many thriving mangroves, the ideal answer for the frequent natural calamities striking the city, the country. A whirlwind visit thoroughly planned by the Office of Mayor Jerry Treñas.

The introduction to neighboring Antique for visiting journalists Katharina Borchardt, Jobst-Ulrich Brand, Holger Heimann, Julia Marie Hubernagel and Sabine Kieselbach was pleasant – yes, Senator Loren’s home province and turf as congresswoman, thus her obvious imprint in many of the present thriving industries.

A surprise was the komedya excerpt in a garden setting, by a cast of young performers who admitted to the many challenges of keeping alive this traditional Philippine theatrical drama that originated during the Spanish colonial period – especially in the light of today’s many online distractions for the youth. The German party was so taken by it that it was the perfect introduction, especially to Katharina Borchardt, to Nicanor Tiongson’s books on Philippine theater. She was delighted to hear that she would have the chance to personally meet Tiongson at the Buchmesse.

There was another opportunity to interact with Antique-based writers – Alex delos Santos, Randy Tacogdoy, Cor Marie Villojan-Abando, Jose Edison Tondares, Ceci Pefianco, Allyn Canja. What pride they had in writing in their language, Kinaray-a.

Antique is home to one of NBDB’s 113 Book Nooks, the answer to our lack of public libraries, accessible in the most remote areas. Lucky that National Book Nook coordinator Daniel Lorenzo Mariano was traveling with the group.

Book Nook had a storytelling session by author and resident storyteller Ceci Pefianco and guest storyteller from Germany, Elisabeth Friedrich. So engaged was the small audience of three children that the youngest of them, six-year-old Hiraya, tried to “usurp” being storyteller. And when Holger Helmann was at work with his mc directed at her, Hiraya shooed him away.

The Old Capitol Building was home to a modest museum of Antique’s weaves and a Tindahang Lokal where favorite Antique products were on sale. This was a true fiber to fabric experience as seen in the Cotton Processing Center in Patnongon and in the Bagtason Loomweavers Association Center, where the mystifying use of natural dyes was explained. One left feeling deprived if one was not wearing something handwoven.

The trip to central Visayas manifested the wide diversity of Philippine culture and traditions. It was time to reflect on all that has been. What better place for this but in the serenely beautiful Boracay in Caticlan – luckily, accessible through a land trip. No better way to cap a whirlwind provincial visit.